How To Build Interior Raked Wall Frame To Sloping Ceiling | How to use a Bevel
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How To Build Interior Raked Wall Frame To Sloping Ceiling | How to use a Bevel

October 9, 2019

Hey everybody today I’m going to show you how I built this wall frame yesterday I showed you how I got it square off that existing house wall because I had nothing else to work to other than the existing wall which I knew was square and straight I was able to make a nice square angle in that corner over there so I know now that the line that I’ve got on my bottom plate down here is square off that corner. Now for the process of building the rest of the wall. You can see already got in place so I’m going to take you through the stages rather than show you every individual thing i just talked about it The problem with this wall is that it’s on a raked ceiling. The ceiling is on a different angle to the floor. The floor is nice and level. Normally you’d measure your bottom plate. Measure the top plate, hopefully they’re the same length and you set them out on the floor measure the distance in between floor and ceiling, take off the thickness of the top plate and the bottom plate that’s your stud length. Cut all the studs. and fix them in place I couldn’t do that because my ceiling is on an angle I’ve got a shorter end here and longer one there. What i did was marked out and cut my bottom plate to length and marked it out with the studs with 450 centers or 18 inches I have a doorway that’s gonna be here so working from each side of the doorway with my 450’s A little trick to do with doorways with the bottom plate before you do studs before you do anything with your bottom plate your mark out where your door is going to be What you do, because later on I’m going to cut that piece of timber out I’m going to be able to walk straight through here. One side will be carpeted the other will remain concreted. This will be cut out later with a handsaw. So using a hand saw so I don’t want to blunt it on the concrete so what I do is cut the bottom side of the bottom plate with a handsaw cut out those angles there on each side cut through about half the depth of the bottom plate so still end up with a nice straight piece of timber that will hold the wall in place but it’s ready for me, down the track, just to cut out the top half and I don’t have to worry about blunting the edge of my nice brand-new handsaw. So using a hand saw is still something that is required in building Can’t use power tools for everything. That’s the bottom plate it’s cut out and the stud points are all marked and in position what i do then is I’ve got to fix the top plate and get it marked out and I didn’t want to lay it down on the floor haven’t got enough space to work with so I leveled up from the bottom corners level up the wall and got a place on existing framework up here, at both ends marked out where that plumb point is up the top, measured that length of timber the top plate, and from those two points I chalked a line through so I’d end up with a nice straight, even if the timbers wasn’t straight then I don’t know where the straight point was, and I could push the top plate in or out as required The ceiling buttons were marking the straight points because of the chalk line and then I fixed that top plate in place Bugled that with screws that’s all fixed in place so at that point i have a bottom plate in place and I have a top plate also in place then it’s a matter of doing all the studs. You can do the end studs quite easily because it’s just a matter of measuring those points and cutting it and putting them into place. The bottom of the studs are all square cuts the top of the studs are all angle cuts I’ll show you, they’re angled For angled cuts I use a bevel for working out that angle. There is a bevel. That’s a really old bevel, it was my father’s bevel and it still works as if it was brand-new but it looks nothing like brand new. So get your nice straight bit of timber preferably up that wall. Assume this is the straight bit of timber against that wall Use your bevel putting it up into place and without even knowing what the angle is in degrees. lt’s just what it is whatever it is the bevel will tell me that and then I can go to the saw and mark the angle. In this case ends up being about seven or eight degrees. Fix off the saw and there we are ready to go to cut my angles. So it will be a square cut the bottom and a diagonal cut at the top Then because I marked out the bottom plate at 450 centers with a level and a straight edge in this case my level is a straightedge. I can work from that bottom point. Get my level and hold it nice and level and mark off the point up the top here. Then from the two marks on the top plate and on the bottom plate measure the length of the stud and then cut them all. Always making sure that I’m measuring the long or short point knowing when I got to the saw which one I’m working with. Then I can measure each stud. Each stud is a different length Working my way right through for the whole wall Another little thing to take account of is the noggings. In Australia we call them noggings now these are all placed at the height which will suit the plasterboard I know it’s called different things in different countries industry we call plasterboard and in this case they are 1200 high sheets or four foot high so the nogging are marked with the chalk line once again where that 1200 point is. Then the nogging is fitted above and below that line. Then each second opening will pick up the plasterboard. Some glue, but I’ll show you that later on. This side will be plasterboard and the other side will be some shelves, I’ll show you that on another video Thanks for watching Hope that helps you in a project that you might have coming up. If you have questions then comment below. About any particular thing you need clarified. Every job is different and requires slightly different tasks. thanks for watching see you all again very soon bye

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  1. Ok Geoff – Question why do you lay your plasterboard horizontal not vertical. A 2400mm x 1200mm sheet would it not be better to pick up the whole 2400mm joint onto a stud?

  2. excellent detail just what i needed to see. many thanks for taking the time. ps dry wall, sheetrock = plaster board from yrs ago.

  3. Great information even though I'm in the US. But I have to take a break because the hand held camera work is making me sea sick.Very useful. Thanks.

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