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September 9, 2019

Hi, I’m Bob Schmidt with HomeRemodelWorkshop Why is it, although we all pretty
much basically start with the same framing material as one another when the first guys job is done his wall is very straight, fits countertops and shelving nice and the other guy who used exactly the same material his wall does this looks like the surfs up I’ll show you a few simple tips to be like the first guy. Let’s get to work. There’s no such thing as a perfect board mother nature made this board and
basically it grew the way it grew now as you can see this board has a crown in it, this is
what these guys are looking at when they’re looking down the edge of the
board this board actually crowns this direction up so to mark this crown either make an arrow or a carrot mark or a curve that shows which direction this crown is
going. Here’s a few different ways of
marking a crown you can mark in any way you want as long
as you know which way the board is curving and you always point toward the
outside curve of the board. Now on floor joists such as this everyone knows that there are things that are
going to be pulling down in the center of this floor joist gravity, furniture, the weight of the construction
itself and your big Uncle John that walks across
the floor, everything is going to be pressing down on this board so everyone knows to put the
crown up but a common mistake that do-it-yourselfers
make is they don’t look at their wall studs and
put any crown marks on their wall studs, and people will say well why do I have
to put crown marks on my wall studs I’ll show you. Although every stud will have just a
slightly different curve in it to the crown you need to go through before you build
any walls and you need to look at every single stud mark every single crown now when you place these studs into the
wall the crown marks should always point
the same direction well for one thing, the reason you
do that is if you put a crown this way on the first stud… and then you put a
crown that way on the second stud although the top and the bottom are going
to be straight because you snapped lines across your framing members and snapped lines
across your floor and you force that wall plate to be straight at the top and the bottom it’s going to
line up but in the center it’s going to wave like
this, back and forth slightly now you make those crowns opposite each
other if this is an eighth-inch crown and this is a quarter-inch crown you make
them opposite each other all of sudden you have a three-eighths of an inch
wave in your wall in thirty two inches you don’t want that to happen now the question is is which side should you put your crown to if you’re building an outside wall
whether it gets plywood or whether it’s up in a basement and it’s against the
foundation wall you always put your crowns out so that the crown is facing toward
the outside or facing toward the concrete why do you do this it’s simple I consider it an active and an inactive
side of the wall you always place your crown facing the
inactive side of the wall now obviously the outside there’s nothing happening out
there toward the concrete there’s nothing happening out there what could be happening on the inside cabinets countertops things along those lines when you have a wall that has a curve in it like this that
is convex and I know that’s dramatic can see that but when when you put a cabinet on this wall the closer you get to the top the straighter this walls going to be so when you screw the top of this
cabinet on up here it’s in a straighter area and then
it’s very to take shims and shim the bottom away same thing with a base cabinet when you
put the base cabinet in it’ll be a little bit away at the top
and tight at the bottom it’s easy to shim this in now because these are all curved the same
direction when your countertop goes down it or
your backsplash goes down it you have a nice even flat surface that will go
down now there’s one situation where I would
not put the crowns the same direction i’ll show you what that is. There are
certain parts of wall framing that you would like to be as straight as possible alongside a doorway obviously that door
jam is going to be cut nice and straight you want it to fit nicely in the wall usually in these places where walls but
up to each other or where there’s going to be a door jamb you have more than one piece of framing
going together like this so what I always do is I take the crowns and I
make them opposite each other like they are showing right here I put them together like this I nail the top, I nail the bottom, what that
does is that leaves a little bit of extra here and a little bit of extra on this
side then you take sixteen penny nails and you drive them in at an angle forcing
them to be straight with each other so that the crowns are pulling against
each other hence, straightening this two by member which makes it better for an outside
corner so your corner beads nice and straight or for a door, where you’re going to have a door that’s going to be hanging nice and straight down
this can be hanging onto straight down that opening. So, that’s it it’s a simple tip but we all start with the same material you
might as well go ahead and get the best product out of it that you can now on that note if you’re going down
through and your crowning you’re two by fours and you find one that looks like it
could make a ski pole out of it set that dude aside to use for
blocking, to hold down plates or small little recesses in walls don’t use that as a wall stud pick your standard a typical
curvature on an eight foot stud is maybe anywhere between an eighth to the most a quarter, anything beyond that you want to either set it aside and send it back to the lumberyard a lot of times they’ll take severely curved studs back or use it in another part of your project where you need shorter studs where that curve won’t make a difference I’m Bob Schmidt with HomeRemodelWorkshop, hope you appreciated this tip If you like our videos, please subscribe, if this isn’t interesting to you check out our home channel, we have many more videos there. Thanks

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  1. Not sure I totally understand your comment but if what you are trying to say is you check your work with a straight edge and use a power planer to straighten bad studs. This is what I do sometimes to straighten existing walls that I stripped on one side but not necessary on walls that I build using the criteria I showed in video.I have always had consistent results===Bob

  2. Channel not designed for people who have already honed their craft, maybe you could share some of your building tips Thanks+++Bob

  3. I agree screws always hold better than nails,in this case may be a bit of overkill,but I would have no problem doing it that way Thanks+++Bob

  4. hi there I have a question. There is a type of material that contracters put in the holes of concrete blocks to make them stronger and to keep out air out. What is the name of the substance used? Thanks in advance.

  5. Thanks for this!! Very well explained, excellent tips for things I've had trouble with as an amature . . . .

  6. 16d for the toenail is a bit much 99% of the time, 12d is better. And better still than toe nailing, is nailing a 12d in the 1½" side if the "lower" of the 2, and use a hammer or cats paw to lever the studs flush, thn nail them together, if you do not have a nail gun, you would want to pre-set some nails.

  7. Forgot to mention, my reason for not liking the studs being toe nailed together to get them flush, is when people for a number of reasons, experience that nail bending, or coming through in a poor angle after hitting a knot or what have you, then you get that gap of the nail shank. ALWAYS nail things together at 90° when possible.

  8. When possible is the key phrase. I also made a video about a palm nailer which assists in toenailing for the hammer challenged.+++Bob

  9. I am familiar with the insulation, however I do not believe it makes the wall stronger maybe someone else will read this and be more knowledgeable +++Bob

  10. Hey Bob, I have been a carpenter for years and I gotta tell ya this video is key to success. If I am doing a small partition wall or framing a full basement or addition this is the way I have done for years. some may not care and not want to take the time to do it but I always reap the rewards of clients who are happy with straight, plumb, even walls and trim.. thanks for breakin it down for anyone on here who may wanna do a little or allot of carpentry properly
    -Tino –

  11. I see your point,however hopefully your crowns will be somewhat similar in crown. if you get a few that are dramatically different then the others I would not use them+++Bob

  12. great videos man i am building a recording studio out of my bedroom and i wouldnt of known where to start without these vids!

  13. You simplified it very well, but your wall plates should be treated with the same consideration esp. the top ones. I know you do that, and forgot to add it to the vid.

  14. Wow bob I have 32 years of experience and every thing you said is what I do , especially the part about king studs and trimmer.s,
    I do the same thing when I have a long windows, I intentionally make 2 sills and make the crowns opposite co i have less flex in the center, so simple yet so important, great job!!! your a good teacher

  15. man,,, if the wood is dry…. crownor no crown wall will be straight. some of it is true but to build like this take too long

  16. @yanikivanov – Ya, cutting corners is much faster. I agree with Yanikivanov, it is too much work to do things the right way. /sarcasm

  17. you know…. i'm a master carpenter and i have to say your a very good teacher. a very relaxed logical approach to teaching…no wonder people like your videos, you remind me of my dad….

  18. @SBha30 ,
    the idea is that two crowns going in opposite directions will cancel each out at least a little and the tension created will hold the king and jack stud true.. remember wood flexes thats it's true strength.

  19. So glad to see someone just telling it like it is. So many hacks it's good to know that someone is out there giving good advice!

  20. @TomSawyerPainting I asked a co-worker whos work I really respected what it takes to be a master carpenter. His response was classic "Manfred" You are a master carpenter if you can do what it takes to get the job done, even if its a learn as you go process.I have'nt walked away from one yet! Thanks for watching.+++Bob

  21. @lrd9999 You can add the panel adhesive/ liquid shim and that may help but you would probably be better of if you got a power planer and a straight edge and planed the high spots prior to drywall installation. Just a suggestion. +++ Bob

  22. @faffaflunkie Windy yes, should have used the mic=muffle Hope you found the info you could hear worthwhile+++Bob

  23. honestly i thought this was a joke…but i (like many people apparently) came here from msi so i see most things as a joke 😀

  24. If you want to nail two studs together, with opposite crowns, flush the top, nail it, flush the middle, nail it, and flush the bottom, nail it. Don't nail the top and the bottom, then deal with the middle. You'll have to fight it, as you said use a 16 penny nail and force them together. Just flush ,top, middle, bottom. NO fighting. Same way with double top plates. You flush them as you go from end to end, nailing. You don't nail each end, then deal with the middle.

  25. @OK55OK55OK Just the way I do it, A properly angled 16 seems to not be too difficult to drive wood members straight and I don't have to do it on my knees or on a step ladder, if doing it in place +++Bob

  26. @HomeRemodelWorkshop
    I don't know when you'd ever be on your knees…or on a stepladder … The double studs should be put together before the wall is built. One stud will be cut shorter to support the header over a door or window. These "cripples" are nailed together on sawhorses, or a stack of plywood. All uniform, all flush, starting on one end, and working your way to the other end. You wouldn't put two studs in a wall and then flush the sides. At least not in normal framing.

  27. Thank you SO MUCH! You have no idea how long it took me to finally find a video that explains what the crown of the wood is! Very well explained. I wish your video was of higher quality because the markings on the wood were a bit hard to see.

  28. good tips. i always set aside some of the straighter studs for cabinet walls, doorways, and corners. i mark the crowns by putting a line across the 1 1/2" crowned side, one line for slight crown, two or three lines for the more extreme crowns. then lay them all out on the floor for nailing, so you can see your marks.

  29. 5:02 … I don't get the 16 penny nails driven in at an angle to fix curved studs? Can you explain that or do a closeup or something.

  30. I messed up and learned something. I guess I'll go ahead and sub (maybe this will be the start of something benificial). never know when I might have to build me a hiding spot, boy my wife can sure find chores for Thanx for the videos they are much appreciated. best wishes to you and yours

  31. Thank you so much for your time and help im in the plastering trade I remember hearing story   where most guy would not SHARE tips and tricks cause they where afraid you might take there jobs away . So thank you sir, I salute for your kind sharing, may you and your family stay safe and be well

  32. Couple things, usually if the stud has a bow in it, you can run a saw 2/3 of the way through the stud and you can straighten it that way, or buy a pack of cardboard drywall shims. The drywall shims work well. Those two solutions work well, but its just better to start with straight lumber, or use kiln dried studs.

  33. Thanks for the tip Bob. I'm about to finish my basement and this information will make a big difference as to the straightness of my walls.

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