Making the Frame Saw | Paul Sellers
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Making the Frame Saw | Paul Sellers

August 25, 2019


I wondered if you knew about this bow
so this frame saw this is a saw that’s been used in mainland Europe for
centuries and here in the good old UK the US of A generally they used a brass
back tenon saw were these superior to these not really not at all in fact in
fact craftsmen are still using these today in different parts of Europe and
why were they well let me give you a quick demo because we’re going to make
one but I just want to show you what this saw will do straight off so if
you’re cutting the cheeks of your Tenon’s it’s very effective just as
effective as a tenon saw so this one I just bought the blade
nothing else it’s very effective very effective so
this is a basic very standard joinery saw this would be used for joinery so
here we cross cut the shoulders and we’re going a width and across the grain about equally this will give you some
idea of why Europeans the mainland Europeans didn’t really adopt the
tenon saw they didn’t need it very effective four shoulders four cheeks in a
matter of few minutes there it is so you can see it was very effective it worked
just as well as a tenon saw if not better I thought it was working fine I
could do big cheeks with this much bigger than I can do with a regular
talent saw what about dovetails well let’s just take a quick look I’m not
going to do the whole dovetail but watch here does that work or what
same blade same saw I don’t think I could beat that, perfect I want to show you how to make a frame
saw this saw is very useful it doesn’t have to be complicated you don’t need
any turning parts to it because it’s a frame a joinery saw so we’re going to
use this for joinery we can use it for cross-cutting two-by-fours we can use it
for cross-cutting limbs in a garden we can use it for just about anything it
will cross cut and it will rip in the same saw depending on the blade
I’ve got this one laid out this one I’m going to lay out I’ve measured up from
the end here seven and a half inches from from the bottom here seven and a
half inches I made a line across squared a line across and I made a second line
and marked a second point here that’s going to be a tenon piece the mortise is going to hold a tenon on the end of this not very deep and this
part is the width of the blade but to get the start point here I just measured
up three eight seven eight about ten millimeters on each side like this and
like this and then what I’m going to do is show you on the other one so this one
comes on here I just took that mark like this one two all the ends of my
materials are squared every surface has been planed and then I’m just going to
take this tin this is a three inch diameter tin so this is just a regular vegetable can there I’m going to put
this on both sides so that you can see where I’m shooting for as I cut and file
rasp whatever I do to this so there I’m going to round the ends just for comfort
as much as anything good I’m ready to go I’ve got to get these marks off this one
I want them to match one another so I’m going to square the lines across here
one two and this is my stop and start line to
receive this saw blade itself in the middle of here I’m going to take my
finger and I’m going to eyeball the center here so I go up here now this
wood is spruce and it could be in the u.s. s pmf will work perfectly for this
if SP NF is just a stud grade it’s a spruce pine and fir and any pine would
work too so those lines I need to cut down so I’m going to cut down those
first using a frame saw that I already have made so I’m going to go down that
line right in the from glass the top down to the line like that the same on
this one get the lines square across first drop the hand as you go down this is
fighting me a little bit that’s that then I’m going to take a rasp see this
little shape here take that down this is a not really a necessary step but it
stops the saw from catching when it’s being used and you can do that with a
chisel – you can take off the bulk of it take one half of that pop it pop it pop
it just take the bulk off then follow through just to speed things up a little
bit but you want to stay close to your ply so we do that on all four pieces
okay now this is going to be the bottom of my saw and this is the bottom of my
saw on these two faces these are opposite so this is where this rail is going
across here this would be called a beam the blade will be in this side and the
string will be across the top so I want to put a couple of holes in here I’ve
already marked this I measured in 3/4 of an inch from this outside edge the size
of this material is 16 inches long 2 inches wide and 1 inch thick so I’ve
come in 3/4 from this edge and then I put this I place this on this point on
the curve I place the blade here and then I pulled it till it was over the
centerline of there I want to make sure it’s clear here so that’s where I got
this centerline for the hole from can you see right in there so the blade is
not sticking out of the end why did I go this far in why didn’t I put it in the
center just gives a little bit of extra meat on the
wood to help keep the strength where I want it so I’m going to transfer this
mark to get this the same onto this piece same distance here square the line
across there’s my three quarters in so I just bore through these I’m just going
to use a hand drill it’s plenty good enough for this for
this cordless drill yeah and that’s just going to take a screw just like that to
hold the blade in place later same on this one all the way through we’ll take my bow
saw just clean out the the chuff inside like that now the next stage is to cut
the notches and chop the mortise I’ve set a mortise gage up for a quarter inch
chisel so the chisel goes right in between the two points here maybe
slightly oversized that’s up to you right in here two lines and right in
here two lines that’s all you see those nice crisp mortise lines there and we’re
going to chop this mortise half an inch deep it doesn’t need to be any deeper
you’re going to be cutting this little scalloped in here to receive the tenor
very simple this bit so this is the with them starting away from my line in
between the two lines then I’ll chop and then I go right on the pencil line here
and sharp it’s not an exact science this this is just something to get you
started in woodworking it’s very inexpensive it gets a saw in your hands
in your child’s hands so I’m already down to my half inch depth here so I’m
stopping myself from going any deeper the reason we don’t want to go too deep
is we don’t want to weaken this this part of the frame saw it’s important
that it has sufficient strength turn my chisel around back up here just take
this a little bit deeper here and that’s that part
almost done so now I just go in with my chisel fingers underneath to stop
bruising the wood although this is a saw it’s not fine furniture but just to stop
bruising the wood around the perimeter of the hole that’s that bit done nice
crisp clean mortise hole perfectly fine for this so I’m going to put this next
development in here so I go in with my chisel right I’m going to do one side
first I go here go lighter take out that midsection here take out the bulk of the
waist just like this the same on this side
staying above your line like this then bevel down just follow that radius as
closely as you can don’t go below that pencil line change hands here do the
same on the other side so you can see I’m right in that bevel just perfectly
as near as I can get it see where how close there’s my pencil line you can see
I’m very close to my line same on this other one just the same so a center cut
that’s just a stock cut just to take out some of the bulk then you’re going to go
bevel down now this is quite soft wood so you may at some point after you made
this frame saw you may want to choose a harder wood or you may want to choose a
harder wood before the idea of using spruce or something like that is the
weight and strength I think spruce may be the strongest wood
per strength weight ratio of any wood in the world so now
somebody will probably correct me but I think it’s pretty close to that I’m
right on there so what I did here I just rounded a piece of wood to the shape I
want just to make something to just clean up those areas just a little bit
just to smooth them out get the radius where I want it that’s one part now I
have to put a tenon on the end of each one of these how did I get to the length
of this beam I want to show you then you can follow suit that’s going to go that
way this here this here make sure you have everything arranged I’ve already
cut most of this stuff to the actual finished length here’s my blade my blade
goes in here just find the hole inside and just pop one of the screws in like
this this is going to fix the location that’s all so we know the exact length
that we want between the beams now your saw blade may be very different
depending on where you buy it from it may be different than mine so just bear
that in mind so I can’t really give you the size that I exactly have because it
may vary so that’s just the threads of the screw catching on the metal so now
we’ve got this distance here right here to here so I have a set distance there
and I want this part to be the same as the distance when I close this up I want
this to be 20 in my case it’s good 20 and 5/8 so there is 20 and 5/8 this then
goes on here and this goes to the extent of the radius so that’s the extent of
the radius so that means that I’m parallel I’ve cut this to length
I’ve got this radius let me mark this on here so you can see what I’m talking
about I’ve got the bean can here that goes there so this will go right in
between those two points can you see that so that works perfectly that means
when we pull this together with the string this will stretch the blade to
give it the tautness that it needs so that’s how I got the length of the beam
that means this beam actually is half an inch long longer than I can you see
there that’s my actual shoulder the end of the shoulder so if I put this here
and here let me square that with the square because this doesn’t need these
two sides do need to be exactly the same the radius in between there here’s my
marking gauge my mortis gauge is marking the position of the tenon like this go
ahead and Mark that on here for you if we oops that’s nothing that’s it so that’s exactly centered in my piece
of wood then I go back to my been can and I’ve got these two points here I
want this point and this point can you see that so I want this point those are
the two extremes of the radius that I want on this side so I go right up tight
make my art can you see it there so this is going to have a radius on there same
on this side here now if I am slightly under on this side it’s going to make
the end piece twist around just a little bit so I don’t want that so I’m going to
try here to be as exact as I can I’m going to take the square let’s just take
a quick look and see how close I am to that square and there I am can you see
how close I am so I’m exactly where I want to be in terms of accuracy this
part here you could use the bow so if you’ve already made one not likely
so here just follow the art a little bit it doesn’t have to be exact you see remember neatness though watch what
happens here now I’m going to go back to my can I want to take the knife let me
turn this so you can see okay here so I’m going to take my can again I want
to make a definitive shoulder line with a knife wall just for clarity so this
comes around here doesn’t have to be scored very deep just follow that radius
here flip over and do the same again this side this will help the start and
stop and give it the precision that I want now then what we’re going to do is we’re
going to saw down this with a fine saw so I’m going to the I’m going on the
waste side of the wood with this first cut here again follow the arc close to it
doesn’t have to be exact because we’re going to trim this in a minute I should cut
this from your side then the fibers will be supported on the inside this is
quicker and easier now I’m going to take a smaller chisel maybe a half inch chisel and I’m just going to go right into that knife wall here so I’m feeling for
the edge there I’m right in it just pare down any angular corners
follow the radius around like this this wood has got some really hard spots in
it which you don’t really always expect do the same on this side clean up and you can actually take a
file onto this if you want to you won’t need to if you’re using a software you
certainly won’t need to because it will compress into a perfect radius now this
should fit into here, the width of the tenon maybe just a hair too thick
which it is so I’m just going to go in here just pare down a little bit on the
wall inside here like this I left a little bit on just so I could pare down the inside this try not to lean on
the ends because it will just bruise the wood here and the length of the tenon too
doesn’t need to hit the end you want it to be free of the end so what we’re
going to do because the because this is radiused i want to radius this part here
a little bit too I’m going to go back to my raft just take out a little bit of the
corner this will allow a little bit of movement inside the mortise to put the
leverage where I want it and hopefully this will be closed like that that’s all
I want so I’ve got close to the radius I want
can you see it right in there if I press down here can you see right in there all
right and I’m also good on this side it’s a little bit
not quite as good but it is certainly good enough there is my frame saw joint
so I’m going to do the same on the other end and then we’ll get back together and
I’ll show you what the next stage is the next stage on this is – I’ve got
everything finished out and sanded or should I say rasped filed and everything
and cleaned up on the areas I’ve checked the beam in here it works fine so I put
a number on here one and one and two – two
and I’ve decided this is going to be the handle end I’m going to have a dedicated
handle rather than having a handle at each end the benefit of having a handle
at each end is you don’t have to be concerned where they blow which way the
blade goes around you can use either either end but I want mine dedicated I
want this to be the handle so that when I pick it up I know which direction the
teeth are going and I don’t have to look so this is my handle end and this is the
part I want to shape also at the top here I want to put some kind of a of a
shape in here where the string will go around like this so what I do to create
that is quick and simple one notch down here picked a bad spot with the nut in
there didn’t i and the bevel edge chisel like this one here check your jet
your grain direction this is going nose-diving already so I’ll use that to
my advantage so down into the valley like this and just take out the bulk of
the waste so from here bevel down read your grain as much as you can see
this is nose-diving here at this side where the knot was but it’s been fine
it’s really in to my advantage in this case you do need to know the grain and
work with it that’s my not technically I wouldn’t
have to do much more than this spoke shave just to bear this into that Hollow just clean up like that then I would
probably go with a rasp and if I didn’t have a rasp I would just go with the
sandpaper in the block of wood like this I’m going to just not really do much
more than that I could put a little bit of a notch in
here just to hold the string in place I don’t need very much this is fine that’s that shape now I can use this one
here to create the matches this is heavy duty this is kind of cumbersome but this
is actually going to be a heavier saw that I might normally use because of the
size of the teeth you just refine yours and this is a
course to a tool it’s going to be used for maybe cross-cutting limbs could be
useful here all depends on the blade you’re putting in yours this is going to give you the saw
whether it’s for cutting dovetails or cutting tenons whatever it’s going to
be a saw that works you can refine it just as much as you like make sure these
tools are out of the way go in and sand it clean it up as much as you want that’s going to work now I’ve got my
handle part to do this needs to be comfortable this is quite big on this
one so I’m going to take this inside corner just like this with a 45 more
from the end but I don’t want go into this notched area here that’s
that one works perfectly so when my fingers go
around here it actually feels quite comfortable but I could go in here as
well and make this a little narrower because
it’s quite big in here that’s we used it quite a bit so now it’s feeling quite
comfortable here just take off the corner first and then start feeling
the corner just for size and see how it fits you home now it’s feeling quite
chunky still so I’m going to go some more and that fits my hand spruce dust let’s
put this together see how it goes so two goes to two there saw blade in here so
making sure my teeth are going towards the this end here and now I’m looking
for the whole bit like playing with sharks this is now you can put knots and
bolts in here if you want to once this is cinched up tight these will not turn
loose so I wouldn’t I wouldn’t worry too much
this doesn’t want to go in just doesn’t want to find the hole here this end is plugged up a little bit that’s in there that works fine think
I’ll have the screws going from the same face there so now we can apply pressure
on here let’s see how that goes now I’ve just got some thin cotton line
and you could use nylon for this you could use just about anything you want
I’m just going to wrap this a couple of times here and then I just go around and
around a half a dozen times or more or depending pulling it tight as I go and
you can put as many around you don’t miss the snap what cotton is very strong
and so is nylon so you could use either there I now have a frame saw or a bow
saw one on the same really and what I like about this actually I have one
where I keep a hacksaw blade in it and it’s wonderful because of the length of
the blade for cutting steel cutting metals and I love that saw is wonderful so good tighten up bow on the bite here
reef knot whichever you prefer then I’ve got one stick here this is just stick it
needs to go just past the middle and have enough to turn it so doesn’t matter
which way you turn this keeps inching this tight up push it through to near
the center just twist it like this just keep going going going people are pretty
frightened of this but this is you know this spruce is pretty stout for this
that’s one of the things you don’t need to go too light on the wood thinking
it’s going to break because there’s a good chance that it will not break as
long as you don’t go too cinch so that’s my bow saw it’s a wonderful project to
make with your children and your grandchildren this one needs sharpening
I know it does and I cover that in another video let’s just give it a quick
pass into this wood feels nice and stout here we go it works you just needs some
refinements on the blade and that’s ready to work I hope you enjoyed it I
enjoyed it you can see the joints here nice and neat crisp clean lines here all
the way around this will last me probably for a hundred years
can’t see any reason why not the blade is resharpenable I would look for
that in a blade they definitely need sharpening they didn’t come from the
manufacturer as they should ready to go so I just have to touch them up you

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  1. Broken band saw blades used in the inexpensive motorized bandsaws imported from China and Taiwan (to the U.S.) work great for these saws. Many thanks, Paul.

  2. Did anyone test the non turbo-cut blades from fine-tools? What about milling saws? How high the teeth index need to be for me to be able to rip a board?

  3. I can appreciate the usefulness of this. I'd definitely take this over a tenon saw, but I'll take a Japanese saw over them both. Something about pulling just makes more sense to me than pushing. I suppose I could easily set this up to pull and get some great use out of it. Paul just makes things look easy, so it looks effortless no matter what tool he's using.

  4. i think you missed one point. here in germany the blade on this saws (we call them "carpenters saw"), the blade is usually twistable, so when you set the blade 90 degrees on your wood, the frame of the saw is at an slight angle.
    this counter-balances the saw, and you make perfect perpendicular cuts every time. this feature is the whole point of the saw.
    we also have those "tenon saws", but for other applications (they are usually used here to cut baseboards), the carpenters saw comes in handy, whenever you have to make long, straight, perpendicular cuts.

  5. I'm very impressed, your demonstrations of making things fit together, using various applications . You remind me of my father's woodworking abilities taught to him years ago from Germany !! Thank you very much !!

  6. As a kid in the late 50's early 60's I remember a saw shaped similar to this that my dad had but with all the fancy carving and finish on it I think it was a factory made one , I think I remember a turn buckle on a threaded rod , probably two threaded rods.

    Is this possible?

    FYI my dad was born on Sept 5, 1913.

  7. I am guessing that you are located in the UK—-how wrong am I???

    I am American from the upper Midwest, in fact about 60 miles south of the Canada/ US border in North Dakota.

    Thank you.

    BTW I really like your show, all the exact woodworking.

  8. Tage Frid cut dovetails with a frame saw. It was the first saw I bought as a new woodworker years ago and I still use it everyday in my shop

  9. I made this saw just recently using the video. It was a fun project. (BTW, now I have two vegetable cans being used in my woodwork 🙂 I put on a new Highland blade for ripping, and that cost less than ten dollars. The wood cost about two dollars at a big box store. But I used existing hand tools (plane, saw, rasp) to construct it. I used Paul's sharpening video to get the tool really sharp, and it cuts quite aggressively, enough btw so that you really need to watch those fingers when starting the cut. I may change the rake a bit to tame it a bit (and give me needed practice). Thanks for the video, Paul.

  10. Mr. Sellers I am enjoying your videos. I also get a bit of a kick out of seeing you add nice curves to your work. Nothing that isn't nice to look at as well as useful. Thank you.

  11. Today Paul Sellers shows you how to make your very own frame saw with your very own frame saw.

    Frame saw-ception!!!

  12. have a look at the old frame saw….(saw frame) used for cutting masonry in "Practical Masonry" is free and in pdf format…page 35…..its old as and huge…..two men,one foot of sandstone per hour…omg.

  13. I've seen several of Paul's videos and I've always wondered: "why does he use imperial measurements?" Being from the US I appreciate and understand it, but why would someone from Europe use it? I've always thought of metric to be easier to convert and use, but as I've said, I'm from US and still use imperial. just curious.

  14. Its very OCD of me I know but I've started going through my tables on density and strength

    It depends on what you mean by "strength".

    Working backwards (Z to A) I'm up to M and I've found a bunch of woods that are stronger in their density to Modulus of Rupture ratio and others that are stronger in their modulus of elasticity ratio but so far only one that has a better ratio for both. Tree called Yellow wood. Flindersia xanthoxyla.

    It wouldn't be widely available in the UK or US LOL

  15. Hi folks. I just bought an antique drill like Paul uses at around 9:43 in the video. Two questions: it moves great but the chuck is stuck shut. Can I soak it in something or spray it with something to open it? Also, does it use standard bits or not? Thanks. Love your videos, Paul.

  16. Hi Paul. I'm based in the UK. where did you buy the blade? it looks like it could be used in a framesaw I intend to build to resaw some walnut.

  17. I want to share my experience with E.C.E. (Emmerich) 10mm "turning" bowsaw blades. I bought a handful for my students to use and in my gentle hands, two immediately sheared off at the drilled eye hole. A few others have survived a couple of weeks in the hands of young teenagers so perhaps this is a question of quality control. There is not metal left after drilling a 4mm hole in a 10mm blade (considering the teeth).

    I am also a little irritated with a certain German purveyor of "fine-tools" and ECE for not answering my inquiries in this matter : )

  18. I see a lot of comments about a "cut list". Why? It's really a "build to suit yourself" item. He mentioned the verticals being 16" long, and the material being 1" thick. So go buy some 5/4 by 3 wood, whatever is available in your area, maybe 5/4 by 2 for the horizontal piece, and have at it. Off to 84 Lumber soon to see if they have some 5/4 red oak. Anyplace with spruce is an hour from me. An 8ft stick of 5/4 by 3 yields enough for 3 saws vertical pieces. an 8ft 5/4 by 2 will give 3 horizontals and a cutoff piece that you can make 3 tensioner sticks from. The horizontal piece length is roughly the blade length, maybe a tad shorter.

  19. Ha! Paul.. I started my 2nd bow saw from memory and got everything exactly backwards..doesn't fit..
    Had to revisit your video..
    Also used a dull pencil.. I'm off my game today..lol

  20. I figured I might share a little bit of global perspective of this magnificent tool.

    In traditional Korean woodworking (which is surprisingly quite different from Japanese woodworking), the bow saw is made from a frame using a combination of both bamboo and hardwood, and is arguably one of the most important tools for a Korean cabinetmaker. This is because Korean cabinetmaking frequently necessitates an incredibly large amount of extremely accurate hand resawing to accomplish bookmatching of incredibly intricate inlaying and parquetry patterns.

    If anyone's interested, I can provide more information/links.

  21. Hi Paul, I made one of these but on a bigger scale (3 1m pieces of 4×1 redwood) to crosscut thick logs, but found that the vertical pieces creaked and moved on using it, causing it to be ineffective. Is there something I've done wrong apart from making it a lot bigger? My joints were tight and the blade was well tensioned.

  22. Just finished making my first frame saw, looks good for my first one. Actually built it while waiting on the blades, I need to work on getting the beam joints tighter, and the blade, should have measured it or held it in place, the invoice says it was 26 1/2" but it is a little off, the holes on center are 26 9/16" Just enough to not fit, had to drill two new holes, … I can always do it again, spent a lot of time shaping the handle, and the string curves.

  23. hi, sir, are wonderful! In China, the traditional bow saw uses more than 2000 years, They will be dowel blade 45 degrees, will not block the line of sight, easier to operate.

  24. Does anyone know of an alternative blade to the one used in this video? They don't sell those blades in Australia 🙁 I'd like to make one though…

  25. It is a bit like watching Bob Ross (R.I.P.) You make it look so easy, and yet at the same time one can see the experience that you have. Great videos, I appreciate it a lot. Don't change a thing if not needed 🙂 Big thumbs up for the inspiration !

  26. There also used to exist a frame saw where the blade can be rotated 90 degrees to make rip cuts which length exceed the frame height. Is that another saw or just a variation on this one?

  27. Currently there seem to be two kinds of mainstream outlets where to purchase woodworking equipment. One selling equipment like Veritas. Probably good quality but extremely high in price. Like $250 for a hand saw. And the one like Rockler.com which sell gadget, jigs and "handy tools" by the dozen. Typically for the not-so-gifted woodworker who thinks it will help him finish the product. Now my point, related to this video. The 600mm saw blade can be had for under $10. The spruce is in your scrap box and it takes 1 hour (Paul) or 1 week (me) to build it. And it might be the best saw you ever have and (cite) lasts a century. Now, how many REAL improvements have been made in woodworking tools the past hundred years? That is why I love these lessons by Paul.

  28. So, I've got a few select pieces of purple heart at home, I'm wondering if it would be suitable for this. I get that it is a denser/harder wood. Does anyone know how it would react to the string being tightened?

  29. Thank you so much, Paul , you are really good on that what your doing. Please and I mean it verry serious , continue with this videos, they are the best . Be blessed.

  30. I often wondered how to make one of these saws. Now I do and I will attempt to do one myself. thanks for the video.

  31. Would have been nice f you had stood the blade beside the beam. Wasn’t quit sure your measurement

  32. What is the saw blade called? I'm putting in bow saw blade but it comes up with a very ruff blade.

  33. This is just superb, I been tryin to find out about "holiday woodworking plans" for a while now, and I think this has helped. Ever heard of – Yiyli Yeyavid Booster – (just google it ) ? Ive heard some pretty good things about it and my friend got amazing results with it.

  34. EXCELLENT presentation. Thank you very much. This is a great project to work on with the young nephews.

  35. I was going to comment about why the design is the way it is… but it becomes really clear towards the end of the video. Thanks again for the great content Paul :).

  36. These videos are fantastic and I really enjoy watching them, what I can`t understand are the dislikes. Are they made by tool retailers or just disgruntled haters.

  37. I saw Benniti use this saw and turn in to complete a cutout of dovetails, in 1 motion. It was quite amazing. Thanks for showing how to make the saw. I imagine you could make a series of these. Like I have done with my German saws with different blades. Easy and no changing of blades.

  38. Usually you do need turned parts for it – the handles.

    Typically, there are two holes at the points of the frame where the blade is attached. Two handles with a cylindrical ending that has a slit cut lengthwise into it are pushed through those holes, and the blade is fastened with pins into the two handles, not into the frame itself.

    This allows for the blade to be rotated around its length. This way, you can start straight, make a cut a few inches down, as much as the frame lets you, then angle the blade and cut away strips from a panel, or board – the tensioned wide blade will take care of the cut remaining straight with not too much guiding effort.

    Another use is curved cuts. Besides the wide blade used in this video, there are blades as narrow as 6 mm (about 1/4") – or were, in the past, narrowest I could find to buy recently was 8 mm (that's 1/3"). By constantly tilting the narrow blade by rotating the handles in their holes, you can cut mostly any curve through any board not wider than twice the distance from the blade to the horizontal beam parallel to it.

    There's a video somewhere here on YT of a guy named Frank Klausz who cuts dovetails in softwood using such a saw – with no chiseling at all for one of the pieces. Worth watching, IMO, to see what such a saw can do in the right hands.

    Maybe one thing worth noting is that whether it cuts on the push or the pull is your decision. The saw is symmetrical, you can use it both ways. Personally, I prefer to cut on the push – the tensioned blade never bends or catches, and the cut is faster. With a wide, properly tensioned blade, it's difficult to not cut straight, IME.

    Using it requires some practice. Sharpening and setting the teeth requires a lot of practice too. Aigning the handles, when you don't have the blade fixated to the frame directly, also requires practice (or at least a lot of patience) – not getting this alignment right guarantees crooked cuts, so you immediately know if they're aligned or not. But I feel it's more productive than a short tenon saw with small teeth in many cases, and quite precise too, once you get used to using it. The significantly longer stroke also helps with precision, IME.

  39. That was such a relaxing and enjoying to watch :excellent work
    What’s the best saw blade and the teeth should be
    Thanks

  40. Hello Paul I watch you work. Is really educational I’m try to make tenon saw but I don’t know what is the right size of wood I can use

  41. Where is the copy/paste function, to download all you know, about tools and woodworking and all your skills?!? 😝😝 Whenever I want to do a straight saw cut, it gets crooked !!! 😭. Sogar mit einer elektrischen Gehrungssäge !! 😥

  42. Thnx for taking the time and showing full detail with all there is to know about how u build these awesome tools.

  43. I learned to use these saws in Germany. I think they were originally developed to make use of small, thin blades when tool irons and steels were made in small quantities by hand. That blade probably has less than a quarter of the material of my big Disston ripsaw.

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