Sharpening the Frame Saw | Paul Sellers
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Sharpening the Frame Saw | Paul Sellers

September 24, 2019


one of the things about saw blades and
especially these bow saw blades you can buy inexpensive ones, these are not very
expensive but they don’t come particularly sharp they feel sharp and
you go ooh that’s sharp but actually this one’s not sharp I can see light on the
top of the points of the teeth a light cannot reflect off a sharp edge a couple
of things I want to do to this another thing that was flawed in it is that it
has too much set this is the answer to too much set two hammers one setting
the vise and tap tap tap all the way along watch now steady rhythm as you progress
here that steel is actually flattening and then bouncing back so there’s memory
in the steel so it comes back up so It will have set when I’m done this one had
uneven set which could be for many different reasons
it also had some teeth that were shiny on the tips and some that weren’t after knots caused by the rogue employee
that pulled it across some other metal you can damage the teeth we can resolve those
issues you have to learn to sharpen anyway I’m using a saw file here the saw
file needs to be twice the height of the tooth at least so I’ve
gone just over that means that I’m not wearing out one face unevenly with
another if I was to use this saw file I’d wear these when I rotate it one file
is already used I don’t want that we’re going to put this into a saw chock here
this could be just two pieces of wood in the vise as well drop this down minimize
the vibration cinch it good and tight and I’m sharpening the back of the tooth
that’s leaning away from it can you see how the top of this file is rotated
towards the front of the tooth this is going to be so the saw will be pushed in
this direction so I take a stroke here like this one, two and I’m skipping, I’m
going through every scoop with one stroke only this just feel like it’s
good steel I’m already down I’ve got no light on the ten teeth that I’ve already
done but one stroke in each two full length of the file equal pressure and
all the way through I’m looking at the top of the teeth and each one of these strokes is taking
it down that fraction of a though it’s taking it down to the pinnacle of see, these
feel like porcupines now all the way to the edge so I’m pressing down into the
gullet not sideways not laterally at all because that will push the file
onto the back of the tooth that’s leaning towards the front and into the
face of the tooth that’s actually forming the cutting edge so here I go
again so I’m checking I’m looking at the light no light on the top light on these
back here lost my place there little bit you can see how fast this is
and one more thing, I lost where I was so the light shining in the gullet I’m done
one more here that’s that now what do I do next I go in with my diamond paddle
here go on the back of each tooth just slope it slightly forward all the way
along put a micro bevel on the back of those teeth strengthen the
cutting-edge very quick it refines that cutting edge not the whole back I’m just
doing the very tip a micro bevel on the back this is the Paul Sellers
development here too much vibration there this really helps the the saw and
it will prolong the sharpness of the saw considerably so we’ll put this in and
see how it cuts now taking off the set can reduce the amount of effort it takes
by maybe 30% something like that depending on how much set we took out it
definitely had too much that’s it so let’s load this up and see how this saw
works now now it’s sharp woohee it’s so sharp now
love it did I slack enough in that? I don’t think I did
surprising even with that little bit on there, how much it shortened the saw that looks great cinch it up tight
what’s tight I don’t really know I won’t be able to tell you that you just go you
can put a lot of pressure on this a lot of pressure but you may want to use a
face shield I don’t know so that’s that bit let’s take a look at this it’s got
knots in it but that’s life okay totally totally transformed totally transformed one tenon coming up when you get vibration like that just
take this and cinch it one more not notch like this and then try it again that’s a lot
of contact all those teeth drop your hand it’s a ripsaw remember not a crosscut but boy does that work that works wonderfully so I hope you enjoy your bow
saw where’s my other one as much as I have making it and using it to make a
couple you can make one bow saw and you can change the length of the beam you
just have to make the ways the outside here and just change the length of the
beam if you want to have one saw with you know one saw one saw set of there we go that work didn’t it that is a wonderful saw combine the two you’ve got
cross cut you’ve got rip cut and just for a few dollars a few pounds
not very much few euros whatever that’s my answer if you don’t have a good
joinery saw it’ll work

Only registered users can comment.

  1. Haha! Love it! Hey Paul, can I place a to go order please? Ya, can i order one tenon, bow-sawn? (Answered at 8:34)… Keep 'em coming, Paul!

  2. Paul. Thank you for another helpful video! I am in the process of a frame saw project myself. My question is, should a Rip saw blade have any set at all or should all of the teeth be in line with one another?

  3. The speed he works at here while maintaining precision and accuracy was crazy. I mean the filing and the tenon would have me double checking and cautiously cutting.

  4. Just made my first one out of some scrap cherry I had laying around. I used a Jorgeson 18tpi blade. I followed the instructions about refining the blade and I am very pleased with the results. Used it on some larger tenons that my other saws wouldn't do because of the depth and I realized I just saved myself about $200+ by not having to shell out the dough for a bigger back saw! Thanks, Paul! I think I may have $10-15 in the whole thing.

  5. Paul, while most saw teeth are square angled filed, do you continue to do square angled filing?, … or the latest angular teeth, like Corona folding saw, or Bahco saw, that has triangular teeth, and actual double row cutting teeth? Their cutting ability in the kerf appears to be vastly increased. My Corona used on 60+ orchard tree pruning for multiple years is an excellent cutter. The same would appear opportune for green wood (large teeth per inch) or dry wood (small teeth per inch) in the wood shop.

  6. I've been watching all these videos on the bow saw and I just realized there's one hanging in my garage that's probably 80 years old or at least as old as I am, 65. I need to see what kind of shape it's in and hopefully these videos will halp me bring it back to life.
    Thanks again Paul!

  7. said it countless times. Watching Paul Sellers is the absolute best. I look forward to his videos. He is a True skilled craftsmen.

  8. Thanks for all the info boatrat. I think you described my saw perfectly and thanks for mentioning the term turn-buckle, I couldn't for the life of me remember what it was called.
    I think from the looks of the blade it was used for small trees or limbs as you mentioned. It also looks as if it were commercially made and well I might add.
    I think I'm just going to clean it up a bit and hang it on the wall and maybe make one of my own.
    Thanks for your time getting back to me.
    Peter

  9. Thanks for the video. I just purchased a saw blade to make a bow saw (advertised as a miter saw blade) that has blackened teeth (assumed they are hardened). Are those saws able to be sharpened? The maker is Jorgensen.

  10. Hi Paul great video tutorial i must say i have a few of them blades laying around ill have to sharpen them and make a framing saw thanks

  11. I have small dove tail saws. If I use the hammer method and take off the set and sharpen it without set it will still work okay?

  12. Hello Mr Powell
    From the time I was playing a video explaining how to make a manual saw a Japanese style if possible send me video clip
    I'd be thankful

  13. So will decreasing the blade set by hammering cause bowing ? After all you do the same thing to a square to adjust it……

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