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The Ultimate Picture Frame Sled with Micro Jig Zero Play Guide Bar

September 24, 2019


I’m David Picciuto the Drunken Woodworker and today I’m going to show you how to make the ultimate picture frame sled. Check it! This is the first video and a multi-part
series on picture frame making This video give you an overview on how to make the ultimate picture frame sled. If you like to see more detailed
information and photos please check out my website at the link below. In order to make perfect picture frames
you need two things: One the two corner pieces must equal
ninety degrees And the short side as was as the long sides need to be exactly the same length. This sled covers both of
those issues as well as it allows for larger picture
frames than in traditional miter sled stop system. Picture frames are not measured by the
inside or outside length but by the rabbit so if you’re artwork or
matte is 5×7, this stop system allows
you to dial in that exact size. To make sure there is no play in our sled we’re using the MicroJig Zero Play guide bar system. that adjust to fit any table saw. Also, I must give credit where credit is due. This is a modified and updated sled to one published by Fine Woodworking. If you want to check out those plans there will be a link below. Let’s begin. First up is we’ll cut the base to size. Next we’ll draw the 45° line where our kerf cut will be, as reference. Knowing my fence is parallel to the blade, I’ll use a speed square up against it to register the sled at 45°. And then mark where the miter slot is located. Next I’ll assemble the Micro Jig Zero Play Guide Bar System in real time to show how easy it is to set it up. There are two pieces that slide along angled grooves. This allows the Zero Play Guide Bar to match the width of any miter slot. This 2nd assembly is the Zero Play stop system that’ll aid in configuring the guide bar. I’ll mount the stop in the miter slot about 12 inches up. Then using two nickels to elevate the guide bar I’ll place it up against the stop, slide the top piece so it just kisses the rails and tighten the three screws. And that’s all it takes to set it up. Quick and easy with no play. Next I’ll place it on top of the base and use an ice pick to mark where the the holes need to be drilled. Then I’ll drill oversized holes, this will allow for calibration. And counter sink them so the screw head will sit below the surface. And now it’s just a matter of placing in the washers and screws and loosely attaching the Zero Play underneath the base. Because the holes are oversized we can then calibrate the sled to be exactly 45° to the fence and tighten down the screws. A nice snug fit with zero play. Now we’ll cut the kerf to about 10 inches deep. Using an aluminum ruler I cut a 45° angle at the front end and then cut it to length. Using the cut off of the ruler for the short side I repeat the process. Since I want my ruler to be elevated and have an overhang, I’ll cut some masonite to about half the width of the ruler. Now I’ll epoxy it on the back of the ruler. On the short side I won’t need the measurements so I have the numbers facing down. Now it’s time to attach the ruler to the base. It’s important to have it perfectly parallel to the edge so I’ll screw in one side, position it and then add a couple more screws. Here is the most important part of the build. You want the short side to be a perfect 90° so I encourage you to check, recheck and then check again. Because I have a SawStop table saw, the aluminum will trip the break if it contacts the blade so I’m going to remove the first inch of my ruler. Now I’ll reattach it with glue and screws. Once again, make sure the two guides meet at a perfect 90° angle. Here I’m using adhesive backed sandpaper as grip to prevent slipping of my frame pieces when making cuts. Now it’s time to cut the stop block. On one edge I’ll cut a grove that’ll slip over the ruler. And then cut a 45° angle on one face. Then I’ll attach a hold-down toggle clamp to the stop block. The great thing about this stop block system is it measures the cut of the rabbit. So if your picture or matte is 5×7 we’ll move the stop to the 5 inch mark and clamp it down. Make our first cut on the left side and move the piece to the right side of the sled up against the block. Repeat the process again for two equal length pieces. Then we’ll move our stop block to the 7 inch mark and cut two more pieces the exact same way. Well thanks for watching. This is a multi-part series in picture frame making so I encourage you to check out these other links. In the future I may add some safety features and upgrade the toggle switch. I’d love to hear how you would modify this to make it your ultimate picture frame sled in the comments below. Be safe, stay passionate and make something.

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