Wall Frame Components and Construction Sequence
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Wall Frame Components and Construction Sequence

August 25, 2019


So in this video what I want to show you is the names of all the members that make up a wall frame and In the process a or my preferred construction sequence More than now the way I go about putting it together, so this is our completed wall frame I’ve chosen this one because it has most of the members in it and here are all the names we’ll go through these individually shortly, and I’ll put this slide up end, but if you want you can pause and have a look at that one, but anyway let’s kick on so as I said I’ll do this in the way that I would normally construct the frame So to start with that frame we need to start with our bottom plate and Our top plate, so obviously these will be the horizontal members One that runs along on the floor the other one runs along the top of the wall Now in between the plates Running from plate to plate. We’re going to have Studs now. There’s about three, four different types of studs Depending and the only thing that changes is the actual position of where they go, so the first ones, I throw in are the ones on the end Which are what we call corner studs This set here are going to form the corner for the wall running at 90 degrees This stud here Will be where the two wall frames join that may be at another intersection, or they could just be another wall continuing straight on So first studs that I always showing are the intersection studs then Sorry while we do this, these two studs here generally we throw some blocking in because it’s so close together And we won’t be able to get a noggin in you’ll see that a little bit later. We throw in some blocks About 300mm no shorter Sort of 300 more minimum blocks just to hold those to studs apart Also gives us somewhere else to nail when we throw the wall on this end then I’ve put in my full-length studs on my window jamb studs the guy on my window and I throw in my door studs as Well these two sets of studs should be the straightest studs that you’ve got because if you then get nice straight studs in these positions When you go to put your door jamb in and your window You’re going to have a lot of trouble with your architrave trying to get your door into wind and that sort of thing, so make these sets of studs the straightest ones you can lay your hands on you also notice at the top of the door where the trim is going to go I’ve Checked that in about 10mm to take the window head that’s my personal preference, so Yeah Okay, so there the door studs You can then throw in the remaining studs. So these are called the common studs, so in this wall I’ve only got two common studs Which is that one and that one But in other walls I mean the entire wall except for the ones on the end could be common stance so common studs just run from top to bottom same as all the rest, but they don’t have a a roll or they’re not in a position to do anything they’re just going to transfer the weight off of the of the roof So that’s all my full length studs so next I’m going to put in my Lintels and to take my Lintels I need to put in a jamb stud from a window so Here I’ve got a secondary stud called a Jamb Stud and my lintel sits on top of those so these two studs here are supporting the weight of the Lintel directly and Depending on the timber that you’re using in the span of the lintel you may need to have 1, 2 or even 3 of these studs underneath the Lintel Okay, so this is your lintel this is just another piece of your framing material so whatever your starts were whether they’re 90 x 35, 90 x 45 Just run another piece of that under the lintel Just so if you’ve got a lining on the outside if you doing weatherboards on the outside It gives you somewhere to support to nail off the weatherboards Okay, so that’s your lintel and your Jamb studs Your Window sill trimmer a lot of people just call it a sill, but it’s a sill trimmer it runs the width of the window and we’re generally then if we need a secondary stud under a head we put a star in between the Lintel and the Trimmer and then later on we’ll put a jack stud under here the transfer the weight from the roof, from the top plate all the way through to the floor continuing with our horizontal members our door trimmer, door head trimmer in there and Then we can now we’ve got all these horizontal pieces in we can put in our Jack studs so any stud That doesn’t run from top plate to bottom plate It’s a little bit shorter is referred to as a jack stud. So the one above the doorway here these doorways are generally sort of 800 to 900 wide so that’s wider than our standard spacing so we have to put our jack stud in there and As I said before Jack stud continuing that load path for that secondary Jamb stud continuing with our spacing underneath the window and another one on this side and above the window. I’ve actually got another three Jack studs that are there to just fill in the gap if we actually have that gap the other option is to move this lintel All the way up to underneath the plate and then you can pack out these Jamb studs underneath the lintel A lot of framing companies do it that way they just automatically put their lintels hard up under the plate And then if they need to pack down from the lintel they just do it this frame it out these particular studs are just Framing material on their flat. It’s just quicker than trying to rebate a L-shape out of this piece of timber to sit it over that just takes once again if you going to put weatherboards on the on the exterior of this house It gives us somewhere to attach to other boards to Also for Brickwork if we go to tie the brick veneer in it gives us somewhere to put a veneer ties on so that’s Jack studs and Then we have our noggins so the standard spacing for our noggins is 1.350m and Generally, what we do is we mark a line Through the wall, and then we put one stud Above the line one stud sorry one, noggin above the line and one noggin below the line So that we can just drive the nails straight through and we don’t need to skew them this makes it a stronger job although in areas like this Becomes a little bit difficult we have to skew So noggins not studs, noggins then we need to brace the wall, so what we do is have to check that it’s square so we can measure from corner to corner diagonally and if those measurements are the same then the wall is square, and then we can attach a Diagonal Brace Such as this one now nowadays. They’re commonly made of a perforated Metal but in the old days they were made of timber as you can see it was a pretty tight fit to get this actual brace in the preferred angle for a brace is 45 degrees they can’t lay them any flatter than 30 degrees and You can’t stand them up any steeper than 60 degrees otherwise they lose their effectiveness Now this wall was a little bit tight, but if we couldn’t get a diagonal brace in Then we can always use what they call a sheet brace so this is just a a specially made Sheet of ply, or can be sheet a hard board, there are fiber cement products out there that’s actually made as a sheet brace and it’s nailed to the frame and it doesn’t need to be a certain width just cut it to suit your stud work and We generally try and keep our bracing on the external side of the wall so it won’t interfere with any internal linings or obviously if we’re going to put a wall Into this intersection, we don’t want to have our brace between the the two walls that are joining otherwise We’ll try our building out by the thickness of the the brace sheet So that’s it is their wall constructed Once again, there’s all our names

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  1. Thanks for your helpful videos, I'm a graduate structural engineer and I was told that for sheet bracing ( Plywood ) minimum width should be 900 mm to be effective, I was wondering if you use less than 900 mm and do you suggest metal strap or plywood for bracings and what typical sizes are easier to install , thanks

  2. HI @Anthony Leily Thanks for your feedback. I have never heard of an actual minimum width however I would imaging that the narrower the sheet the less effective it would be and it would probaly get to a point where it would not be worth putting it on at all. I cant recall using sheets less that 900mm here in NSW, Australia. Personaly I prefer plywood over metal strap. The metal straps are a pain to install and don't really give you a lot of resistance. With Ply all you do is nail it on and you get a lot more resistance. Size is not really an issue as long as the sheets suite the stud spacings, the less cutting you have to do the better.

  3. Hi +Kim Bucina  All the terminology in this video are correct as per the Australian Standard AS 1684 Timber Framing Code and are not slang

  4. great video mate. just wondering with the ply bracing, is it better to put them on when the wall is flat on the ground, after you get it nice and square, or after it is erected?  thanks.

  5. Hi Mr. Buildsum thanks for this tutorial. my question is about the dimension, for all framing materials I need this or if you can tell where I find referents books. I working for framing company and I just work like a Drawing person but, if I can help for calculate other material is better for me. Thanks Luis.

  6. Hi, Thanks for the video..I was wondering for internal walls here in NSW can you have stud spacings of 600mm and can you use 70 x 35 mm structural pine? Also if doing external stud walls, (I was thinking at 450 centres), is it ok to use 70 x 35 also for that?
    Thanks,
    Tony

  7. here in the USA we never have the floor plate run across the bottom of a doorway, and we have a header over the doors as well as the windows, and all are lumber is 2×4 or 2×6 and so on and we use a 1×4 for angel bracing and it is notched into each stud making for a very strong bracing.

  8. do you use the force to make the top plate float up in the air like that? You probably could use it for much more useful things than framing a wall…

  9. so with the panel bracing how is that covered by the cladding if the bracing steps out on the outside wall wont that push the wall cladding out or is that panel recessed into the framing

  10. gday
    Enjoyed the video !
    I'm constructing non load bearing stud walls and would like to know the following:-
    Is it a requirement to use a lintel over a window which is approximately say 3 metres wide, or could I get away with installing extra jack studs ?
    The top and bottom plates are Ankascrewed into concrete slabs.
    Cheers

    P.S
    Its good to see an Australian video on timber framing construction. Most of the videos are American which are as useful as tits on a bull to Australians building in Australia

  11. Great vid , My Question is , what will determine the position of lentil over window opening? do we have to pre measure window opening then lay lentil over? Thanks in advance

  12. I had to pause the video at :20 to thank you already for actually going over some vocabulary. I've been watching other videos that assume that I already know what these things are. Thanks!

  13. its rough sill not sill trimmer, top or bottom cripple and not jack stud,its not door or window stud its king stud and so on. lots of mistakes. (top plate should be doubled)

  14. Thanks again for this series – I'm finding your videos really useful. Sort of clarifying what I 'half knew'. Can you recommend a good table of lintel sizes? (I'm using colorbond roofing). Also, do you have a maximum length that you will build a wall component?

  15. Nicely done as always. With very wide lintel, are the multiple jack studs simply nailed together or do they have thin blocking separating each one?

    When installing a wide lintel into an existing brick veneer wall, it's likely that diagonal bracing will need to be changed for sheet bracing, but I'm not sure how that would be done with the veneer already in place. How is this normally handled, assuming conventional gyprock lining, where you also wouldn't want to affect the wall thickness?

  16. Hello, Im not native english so I'd like to know if the difference between how we name each peace of a frame wall is because of the english speaking (UK vs EEUU for example). I mean, you say "Jack Studs" and i have seen the same with "Cripple Stud", same with "Header" and "Lintel", "Trimmer" and "Jamb Stud", "King Stud" and "Window Stud". ¡Thanks!

  17. G'day Buildsum, I've just found your channel and enjoy your videos. If you have the time to respond, I'd love to ask a few questions: I've been waching all the Larry Haun framing videos and now I am trying to 'translate' that info into Australian 🙂
    The yanks seem to use 2x4s for studs and floor/top plates. I gather 90×35 is the closest equivalent for a 2×4 – is that what you use? and the same for floor and top plates?
    Also they don't seem to use noggins – is that an Aus standard thing?
    When I buy a bundle of H2 or H3 from Bunnings most of them have some bow or twist in them. What's acceptable and what isn't? I know you said use the straightest ones for window and door studs. How do you deal w distorted timber? Do you make all the bows face one way and compensate somehow? I can't find any info on this. Would love your advice. Cheers.

  18. Hey buildsum, thanks heaps for the videos.
    I am new to carpentry and would like to know more in regards to window positioning while framing. My current boss tries his best to measure where the bricks will be then align the windows closes to where it might be. Even though i think this makes it easier for the brick layers. I think its time consuming and unnecessary. What are your inputs in this?

  19. Hi JOHN,
    Do you know the software which most framing carpenters use for framing design before they do the job on site?

    second question is when I brace the frame? after all the wall join together or when each wall still lying on the ground?

    Thanks.

    Roger

  20. That was a great comment about some companies handling the lintel differently, thanks for that.

    In your example this was a new build, however how is bracing retrofitted to an existing brick veneer wall? For example retrofitting bifold or stacker doors to replace a standard door. There is obviously no longer access to the cavity. There would be an existing timber or perf steel diagonal bracing but that would no longer be possible. I presume the sheet bracing would need to be installed internally?

  21. there should be two top plates(double) and u also forgot a lintel(header) on top of the door frame. other than that, good video 🙂

  22. been fraiming a long time , terms are different all over. but my problem with this is that it's obviously an exterior bearing wall, sooooo why is the door not shown with a solid header and supporting jacks, aka, solid lintel and secondary studs lmao!

  23. Hi very good video just wondering when you put in the secondary stud, isn't that going to close off the measured space needed for the custom made window size?

  24. Awesome, do you have video of how to install & finish window openings after the rough framing & the process of interior and exterior sliding doors?

  25. Why do you need metal bracing if you are going to cover the outside with plywood and the interior with sheetrock?

  26. Hi, how can I bulid a free-standing wall (3mts X 3 Mts high) so it does not move side to side, as there is not top plate fixed to the ceiling ?Ta

  27. finally found a aussie specs you tube site, good illustrations and wordings as im new to the wood speak framing language..thank's mate

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